Christmas Pick n Mix
I'm not one given to 'forward planning' (or simply 'planning'), but I do make an exception when it comes to thinking about which wines to drink. Since Christmas is hurtling towards us like a big rabid animal, I've been spending an unhealthy amount of time poring over wine lists, buttering up distributors, going to tastings and agonising within my own tiny mind to come up with an irresistible list of Christmas crackers – doing all this so you don't have to.
Below you'll find a cherrypicked selection of top-shelf fizz, white, orange, pink, red and sweet wines to make your Christmas properly pop off.
Pick n mix to your heart's content – and do so with all the more relish knowing that, for orders over £150, DELIVERY IS FREE.
Please note that availability for some of these wines is very limited. Where a wine is marked with an asterisk, it's just one bottle per customer.
If you're unsure about anything, just drop me a line here. I'd be happy to help.
To the wines...
Fizz
An unusually more-ish sparkling wine alternative. Even I – a confirmed booze-hound – like drinking it. The product of cold-brewed teas, botanicals and fermented fruits, it’s vibrantly aromatic, sulphite-free and as good as the ‘low/no alcohol’ category gets. Contains natural caffeine for an extra kick. Tastes of fermented apricots, hibiscus, green tea.
Possibly the best sub-£40 Champagne in the known universe. 65% pinot meunier and 35% pinot noir with a base of 2011 reserve wine. Oxidative in style with nutty, creamy brioche and dried fruit notes, and a clean, chalky finish. The richness, complexity and sheer bang for buck here are really quite surprising.
A classic, cool vintage grower Champagne from the Côte des Blancs which, after 11 years, is at a perfect stage between fruity freshness and autolytic richness. Blanc de blancs – so pure chardonnay – that's creamy, layered and effortlessly complex. Brilliant acidity and brightness, with lovely depth, concentration and sweetness (despite having just 3g/l dosage) coming through as it opens.
White
Consider this a bit of a treat: a masterly blend of 70% viognier and 30% roussanne, from very low-yield vines on granite soil, aged on fine lees. Think baby Condrieu. Beautiful, rich, honeysuckle aromatics, heavenly texture, all kept tight and focused thanks to the concentration of the old-vine fruit.
A rare wine from a cult producer. Paul-Henri Thillardon is considered by some to be the next Metras and Dutraive (and was mentored by both). Beautiful natural Beaujolais with real verve. Based in Chenas, on the border of Moulin a Vent. Of course gamay is the region's signature grape but Thillardon makes shockingly good white wines. This is a blend of chardonnay rose (yes), chardonnay and aligoté and is simply electric.
A rare and sought-after chenin blanc from the prized black schist terroir of Montbenault in the Loire. This was aged in old barrels for one year and in bottle for an additional year. It shows beautiful notes of ripe fruit cut by the lovely acid this grape variety is known for. Wildly complex, with a beautiful long finish. Serious stuff.
It’s not often that I sell 20-year-old Wachau riesling, but neither is it Christmas very often. ‘Federspiel’ is a Wachau label given to relatively light dry wines. Deliciously bibbable proof of how amazingly well riesling can age. Feels light but opens up beautifully.
From the windswept south of the Canary island of La Palma, where black volcanic gravel soil predominates. 120-year-old listán blanco vines. A delicate yet powerful wine with intense minerality, a savoury core and a mesmerisingly long finish.
Orange
Skin- and stem-fermented palomino aged under flor in an amontillado Sherry cask. This is complex and ever-evolving. Palomino has given cooked apple; stems have given green olive and pepper; flor and barrel have a slow-building savoury spice. Try with fish, mature cheese, almonds, Iberico ham...
From a 55-year old vineyard of ungrafted vines from the south of Kefalonia. Tsaoussi is a rare variety with grapefruit and herbal aromas. Gently skin-fermented, this just keeps going with flavours and aromans of dried herbs, quince and Seville orange and refreshing nectarine.
Pink
A dark monastrell rosé from a single vineyard at 900m elevation in Murcia, southern Spain. Four years of bottle age. No sulphur added. On the wild side with notes of sweet wild strawberry, red cherry and iron, refreshing acidity and a hint of spritz.
A cult rosé from a cult Tuscan winery. With its texture, complexity and wood-aged character, it reaches parts that other rosatos cannot reach. A blend of 80% malvasia nero and 20% merlot with a cornucopia of red fruits, dried herbs, barnyard and savoury minerality.
Red
100% natural Burgundy pinot noir – a rare bird indeed. Six years of bottle age without added sulphur have led to some interesting evolution: close your eyes and this could be a 2015, even 2012. Fruity and gluggable but with just the right level of Burgundian sophistication.
Regular visitors to my Lloyd Park market will know how much I love Beaujolais. This Morgon from Marcel Lapierre – one of the great names in natural wine form the region – is totally on point – irresistibly elegant and harmonious and satisfying now, but capable of maturing gracefully for a decade at least. (Ah who am I kidding?)
Silky, forest floor-y nebbiolo, young but so perfectly drinkable (especially so with roast goose or similar). Roccalini is a tiny Barbaresco estate that used to sell its grapes to Bruno Giacosa – one of Piedmont's most revered winemakers – until it started to use them make its own wines. The 2020 is one of the best vintages in recent years.
Textbook reserva Rioja from the winemaking visionary that is Telmo Rodriguez. This spends about 18 months ageing in barrel and a minimum of three years in the cellar before release. Velvet-smooth with classic Rioja notes of ripe, creamy strawberries and plums, sweet vanilla and liquorice.
*Les Champs Libres Crozes-Hermitage 2021 - £35
Tasting this syrah is like suddenly living in colour when all you’ve previously known is black and white. Imagine the most seductive blackberry jam you've ever tasted, then add Frazzles and candied violets. Hard not to lose yourself in the perfume of it. Full-flavoured but medium- rather than full-bodied.
Sweet
If you'd like something sweet but not too sweet, this semi-dry delivers the personality of traditional Marsala in a fresher, more elegant modern style. The delicate, fruity notes of the grapes have been preserved by cool-temperature fermentation and minimising contact with oxygen during ageing. Chill and enjoy with anything from salty cheeses to trifle.
The celebrated sweet wine of Tuscany, produced from air-dried grapes and given extended ageing in old casks for a wine of haunting, honeyed complexity. This is is from the excellent 2000 vintage. Intensely sweet fruit notes of fig, candied apricot and orange peel are balanced by refreshing acidity and lent intrigue by a lingering, spicy finish. Great with liver paté, Christmas pud, cheese plates or nice and simple with biscotti
DELIVERY: All wines in stock will be delivered within 48 hours (if ordered by 1pm, excluding weekends). If wines are out of stock, please allow up to seven working days for delivery.
Free delivery on case orders, otherwise delivery is £15 per order.
Orders subject to availability. Price is inclusive of duty and VAT.
ORDERS MUST BE RECEIVED AND PAID FOR NO LATER THAN 1PM, FRIDAY 20 DECEMBER TO ENSURE DELIVERY IN TIME FOR CHRISTMAS.
For further information email info@tfwath.com.
Cin cin,
Darren
tfwath.com
@tfwath